The Heart of Unagi: Exploring Regional Dishes and History Across Japan
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Unagi is an ingredient deeply rooted in Japanese food culture, and unique cooking methods have developed across various regions. This article will introduce the diverse eel dishes and their rich history from all over Japan.
1. The History of Unagi and Japanese Culture
The culinary tradition of unagi dates back to the Nara period, and references to it can be found in literature from the Heian period. During the Edo era, the technique of kabayaki (grilled eel) was established and spread widely among common people. Due to its high nutritional value, a custom developed around ‘Doyo no Ushi no Hi’ (the mid-summer nourishing day) for consuming it as a tonic has become popular.
Furthermore, unagi has long been valued in medicinal cuisine (yakuzen). It is known for being rich in vitamins A and E and serving as a stamina booster. Depictions of enjoying unagi dishes can be found in Edo-period ukiyo-e prints and books, showing that it was widely loved by the general populace.
2. Regional Eel Dishes of Japan
Kanto Style Unagi (Tokyo/Saitama)
The Kanto region is characterized by the technique of ‘sehi-biraki’ (splitting the eel along the back). The process involves steaming the unagi first, and then grilling it with a sauce. This method creates a soft, plump texture. Many long-established restaurants in Tokyo continue to pass down their secret sauces through generations.
During the Edo period, the samurai culture in Kanto influenced the practice of splitting fish along the back. Consequently, unagi was also prepared this way. Additionally, steaming was developed as a technique to remove excess fat and achieve an elegant flavor.
Kansai Style Unagi (Osaka/Kyoto)
In Kansai, the eel is prepared using ‘hara-biraki’ (splitting along the belly) and grilled without steaming. This results in a characteristic crispy and fragrant skin. During the Edo period, Osaka became a major market for unagi kabayaki, and many local gourmet shops remain today.
Because commercial culture flourished in Kansai, *hara-biraki* became mainstream, rather than *sehi-biraki*, which might evoke images of seppuku. Furthermore, Kansai unagi tends to have a higher fat content, allowing diners to enjoy the fragrant skin and juicy meat by grilling it directly over an open flame.
Hitsumabushi (Aichi Prefecture)
Nagoya’s specialty, Hitsumabushi, is known for serving finely sliced unagi kabayaki over rice, which can be enjoyed in three distinct stages. It starts by eating it plain, then adding condiments and sauces, and finally topping it with dashi broth, similar to ochazuke.
While there are various theories about its origin, it is believed that a restaurant in Nagoya devised this dish during the Meiji era. The initial purpose was to efficiently serve unagi kabayaki by slicing it finely, leading eventually to the establishment of its unique eating style.
Unagi no Seiro Mushi (Fukuoka Prefecture)
In the Fukuoka/Yanagawa area, ‘Seiro Mushi’窶敗teaming unagi kabayaki over rice窶琶s famous. The umami flavor of the eel thoroughly permeates the rice, giving it a soft and satisfying texture.
The Seiro Mushi of Yanagawa is said to have been conceived by merchants during the Edo period. It features a slightly sweet sauce and offers a unique taste distinct from Kanto or Kansai kabayaki.
Unagi no Shira-yaki (Shizuoka Prefecture)
In Shizuoka, ‘Shiro-yaki’ (plain grilled unagi without sauce) is also popular. Eating it with wasabi soy sauce allows diners to savor the inherent flavor of the eel.
Unagi from Hamana Lake is famous nationwide, and Shira-yaki is cherished as a cooking method that fully showcases its high quality. It is a simple way to highlight the delicate flavor of rich unagi fat.
3. The Current Status and Future of Unagi
Decline of Wild Eel
In recent years, the decline in wild eel populations and the resulting price hike have become significant issues. The catch of juvenile eels (shirasu unagi) in Japan’s rivers and lakes is decreasing year by year, leading to its designation as an endangered species. Consequently, efforts are underway to develop sustainable aquaculture techniques and research alternative ingredients.
Innovation in Aquaculture
Currently, the majority of unagi consumed in Japan comes from farmed sources. High-quality farmed unagi is produced particularly in Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures and distributed nationwide. Advances in farming technology are making it possible to supply safer and tastier eel.
Furthermore, research into complete aquaculture techniques has advanced recently, attempting to raise shirasu unagi artificially without collecting them from the wild. If this technology is established, it could solve resource depletion problems and realize a sustainable unagi industry.
Conclusion
Across Japan, there exists a variety of regional eel dishes, each possessing its unique history and charm. From the plump Kanto-style kabayaki and the fragrant Kansai-style kabayaki to Nagoya’s Hitsumabushi, Fukuoka’s Seiro Mushi, and Shizuoka’s Shira-yaki窶播iverse ways to enjoy unagi are available.
To preserve the resource of unagi while passing on Japan’s traditional eel culture to the future, it is crucial to pay attention to sustainable consumption methods and the development of aquaculture technology. When you eat unagi, take time to appreciate the unique local flavors while feeling the depth of Japanese eel culture.
